DUCK

By CHRISTINE LIU

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Hunting season: Wed 10.15.08–Sat 11.29.08 and Fri 12.12.08–Sat 1.03.09 (Berkshire); Tue 10.14.08–Sat 11.29.08 and Mon 12.15.08–Mon 1.05.09 (Central); Fri 10.17.08–Sat 10.25.08 and Wed 11.26.08–Sat 1.24.09 (Coastal)

Tastes like: rich, tender dark meat with flavorful, fatty skin

Typical ways to cook: roast, confit, braised

Good names to assign before eating: Quackers, Webmaster, Huey, Dewey and/or Louie

If you're cooking, where to buy: Peking duck (whole), $12/lb at The Butcher Shop [552 Tremont St., South End, Boston. 617.423.4800. thebutchershopboston.com]

BOKX 109 American Prime

Duck fat-fried fries: truffled, herbed, smoked, $9

First things first: duck fat?! "They have tremendously more flavor than with corn oil or peanut oil," confirms Evan Percoco, executive chef and partner. "The potatoes get a lot crispier when cooked in duck fat." We're sold. The fries are seasoned three ways: Spanish smoked paprika, white truffle oil and a parsley-tarragon-rosemary-thyme mix sourced from the "enormous herb garden" on the side of the hotel. Even as an unabashed steakhouse, BOKX 109 "uses as many sustainable, organic and all-natural products as possible," says Percoco. He also reassures wisely, "We give food with full flavor. You don't have to be on a diet every night."

[399 Grove St., Hotel Indigo, Newton. 617.454.3399. bokx109.com]

EVOO

"Duck, Duck, Goose"—duck confit, seared Hudson Valley duck foie gras, slices of goose breast, lentils, Kimball Farm's green beans, Verrill Farm's escarole and sherry-ginger sauce, $27

It's rare to cook one's goose, so to speak. "I don't think it's mass-produced enough [for familiarity], but goose is extremely similar to a large duck," enlightens chef/owner Peter McCarthy. "It's a deep red-colored meat that's just ... real meaty." Fortuitously, the addictive fowl combination in "Duck, Duck, Goose" has kept it on EVOO's menu since its opening 10 years ago. "People talk about it all the time," observes McCarthy, as the dish features a marinated goose breast that is rendered fat-side down to best crisp the skin against rich, lean flesh. Confit, foie gras and seasonal vegetables gild the hell out of the lily. Not that we're complaining.

[118 Beacon St., Somerville. 617.661.3866. evoorestaurant.com]

Rendezvous

Gascon-style duck three ways: grilled breast, confit leg and garlic sausage, $26

Duck addiction appears to be a theme. "It's ridiculous how much of a life of its own this dish took on," says chef/owner Steve Johnson, who's apparently never taking it off the menu as long as he treasures his livelihood, as it's been one of his most cult-worthy plates since its debut two years ago. Though available all year, "It's a dish that's clearly fall-winter style in its vibe and appeal," Johnson concedes. Everything's made in-house, including the luscious Southwestern France-style stew— including Savoy cabbage, smoked bacon and beans—on which the sliced duck breast, sausage and confit rest. Marrying duck meat from Peking species (sausage) with European style (breast) in one dish makes for an implicit global union of sorts. Cousin!

[502 Mass. Ave., Central Sq., Cambridge. 617.576.1900. rendezvouscentralsquare.com]