Reinventing the mules

Back when vodka had no friends

By PINK LADY

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The ladies of LUPEC don't mention vodka much. To the cocktail neophyte, this might seem odd. Vodka is the primary spirit featured on most modern cocktail lists, and the super-premium stuff's the fastest-growing spirit category. What gives?

The thing about vodka: When chilled, it is virtually flavorless. Modern drinkers find this delicious, but for many, many decades, American drinkers eschewed vodka for strong-flavored spirits like gin and whiskey. Vodka was unknown to most Americans until the 1940s, and when the "white whiskey" finally did take off, it was thanks to a clever marketing ploy conceived to unload two previously undesirable products: Smirnoff vodka and Morgan's ginger beer.

The scene: Cock 'n Bull Pub on the Sunset Strip in Los Angeles, 1941. In walks John Martin, president of Heublein, Inc., an East Coast spirits and food distributor better known for sales of A1 Steak Sauce than for Smirnoff. Martin laments his troubles to bar owner and friend, Jack Morgan, who has had a tough time selling his housemade ginger beer. The two invent a cocktail that, combined with an aggressive marketing campaign, would solve all of their problems.

Made with Smirnoff vodka, Morgan's ginger beer and lime juice, the Moscow Mule combined the losing ingredients in a winning way. Official packaging would be copper mugs embossed with the image of a kicking mule, provided by a friend who'd just inherited a copper factory.

Today, vodka is king. Imagine that.

Cin-cin!

MOSCOW MULE

Squeeze half a lime into a Collins glass (or traditional copper mug) and drop in the rind. Add ice, two shots vodka, one shot fresh lime and top with cold ginger beer.

EXPERIENCE MORE 1940s COCKTAILS AT THE LUPEC BOSTON USO SHOW, NOV 21st AT THE JORGE HERNANDEZ CULTURAL CENTER! VISIT LUPECBOSTON.COM FOR DETAILS AND TICKETS.