LORD HOBO

Beer and cuisine to spare

By PATRICK MAIN

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After much anticipation (and a tongue-in-cheek website poking fun at the delay), Lord Hobo has debuted in a completely renovated space formerly occupied by the B-Side Lounge outside Kendall Square. In addition to the dark wood tables and steampunk-ish lighting, local art graces the walls above the high tables, interspersed with enough plasmas to see the game from any seat in the house.

Sitting down on a recent weekday night for dinner, we're immediately nearly overwhelmed by the beer list. Forty draft lines, plus two casks and nearly as many bottles are available, all in a great mix of hophead elixirs, big Belgians, Stouts of every variety and nearly any other style you could desire. I opt for an IPA I'd never seen before (and it's rare that I do outside a beer fest), the Green Flash West Coast IPA ($6.50), which is very good, extremely floral, with a nearly wet-hopped taste. My friends opt for Pretty Things' first seasonal beer, the Baby Tree Belgian Quad ($5.50) and a selection from the extensive cocktail menu, the Interloper cocktail: gin, honey liqueur, lemon, single malt Scotch and a flamed orange twist that was served up in a snifter. The smoky citrus garnish lent a surprising amount of flavor, accentuated by the glassware, making this chilled offering a winner.

To start, we opted for the deviled egg tasting plate ($5) and an order of the curry chips ($7). The eggs touched upon by the Alström bros. ("Welcome, Lord Hobo," 11.18.09) is a great appetizer to share—with only two of each smooth, distinct flavor (white truffle, avocado and smoked chili), elbow your way to the plate; it'll be worth your while. The curry with the chips was a different take on the Irish staple: Extremely buttery with a white wine note, it's hard to describe other than as halfway between a curry and a fondue (without the cheese), but is excellent and must be tried.

For a main course, I had the hanger steak and fries ($19). Served with a red wine demi-glaze and a roasted head of garlic, this thick cut was seared to perfection on the outside and nearly red at the core, with a nice, rich beef flavor. The Maine lobster mac & cheese ($12 app/$18 entrée) featured huge, fresh chunks of meat tossed in a not-too-creamy yet decadent sauce. The quantity and flavor of the lobster, still detectable over the cheese and carbs, sets it apart. Perfectly balanced, it's some of the best comfort-plus-seafood cuisine around—high marks in a town overrun by this particular combo. Finally, the arugula salad ($10) with Humboldt fog goat cheese and bacon lardons is a simple and surprisingly hearty offering. The spicy baby leafery lightly tossed with a champagne vinaigrette holds its own against the meatier tastes of the dish.

In all, the wait was worth it—the interior is beautiful, the beer list I dare say is the best in the city for variety, all paired with excellent food. I'll definitely be sliding up to this bar all winter long.

Rating: * * * *
* * * * * phenomenal
* * * * added to the regular rotation
* * * solid cuisine, presentation and taste
* * average
* meh

LORD HOBO
92 HAMPSHIRE ST.
CAMBRIDGE
617.250.8454
HOURS: 7 DAYS 5PM-1AM
LORDHOBO.COM