Café Klatsch

Edition: Brighton Center

By KEVIN S. MAHONEY

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The near-universal complaint about franchise coffee shops is the uniformity. While their consistency might make pit stops comfortable and familiar from Fitchburg to Saugus, that sameness can be depressing. This week's Café Klatsch—an ongoing spotlight on quality independent caffeine outlets facing the corporate monolith competition—covers the hotbed of java activity in Brighton Center. The cluster offers a grindhouse for every taste, with several very different options neatly huddled within barely three blocks of Washington Street.

Cafénation [380 Washington St., Brighton. 617.783.4514. cafenation.com] may well exist to feed the souls of the starving young artists of Brighton Center. The coffee flows freely in both drip and espresso varieties. There are biscotti and cookies on offer, as well as enough variety in the fare to feed appetites of all types and sizes. The nourishment extends to sweet and savory crêpes, breakfast sandwiches, bagels, salads and pressed sandwiches. The sweet tooth with a meager appetite could feast on the Nutella and banana crêpe, while a more robust hunger could be tamed by the smoked turkey and broccoli crêpe, fortified with spinach and a blend of cheeses. For midday munching, the sandwiches range from vegan avocado and hummus to the hearty honey ham and brie, either of which could jumpstart any brainstorm.

Even the atmosphere of the place serves to stimulate creativity and dialogue. The art on the walls rotates on a near-monthly basis, including an all-employee showing last spring. The XM Satellite Radio soundtrack frees sippers from the tyranny of broadcast commercials. There's also free WiFi (save for peak business hours on weekends and holidays) to help the laptop brigade stay connected to their latest muses.

If stillness, not stimulation, is required with your cup of coffee, Athan's Bakery [407 Washington St., Brighton. 617.783.0313. athansbakery.com] is a quieter, more sophisticated alternative. This spot inspires hushed conversations, the kind first dates and business strategy meetings thrive on. Athan's tables—marble-topped, set wide apart and divided into two separate groups (one for table service, the other for counter service)—assure privacy and aid concentration. Neither the landscape paintings nor the efficient staff ever intrude.

Athan's menu bolsters its urbane atmosphere. Their coffee is roasted much darker than typical American blends. Their pastries, offered in individual and torte sizes, survey recipes from all over Europe. The far-flung ensemble of international baked goods hasn't impacted their quality; the chocolate croissant and the apple strudel are both delicious. House-made gelato is refreshing in summer, while velveteen hot chocolate is revivifying come winter. Consider a visit a refined retreat.

Just up the street, Daniel's Bakery [395 Washington St., Brighton. 617.254.7718] caters to a whole other clientele. The establishment's specialty birthday cakes, made to order, line the shop's front windows. The chilled cases are lined with cupcakes, cookies, two types of flan and even hand-decorated gingerbread men. There's hot-drip coffee, brewed diner style, and iced coffee by way of a cooled pot in the refrigerator upon request.

Instead of courting the sophisticates or the creativity collective, this place tempts families and early risers. Here is a more youth-oriented, festive affair—the most frou-frou it'll go might be with its éclairs. Open at 6am and closed every Sunday, this bakery would be perfect to buy ringers for a school bake sale or sugary treats to put before a morning gathering. But it's tough to linger here; there are no tables, only a small bar to one side of the store. Instead, drop by to fuel up before a long day, or merely pick up a treat to tempt your inner snotty-nosed kid.