Dim Sum Death Match

Last bun standing

By CHRISTINE LIU

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Gitlo's Dim Sum Bakery [164 Brighton Ave., Allston. 617.782.2253]

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THE DEAL

As a relative newcomer to the burgeoning international snack food court that is Allston Village, Gitlo's pride and joy lies in its authentic, no-frills refuge, providing dim sum delights off a menu, all freshly made to order. Eat-in, delivery and takeout options make it awesome for locals, though its 10:30pm daily closing time cuts hungry partygoers short."

THE JOINT

It's adorably, but inarguably, hole-in-the-wall. The interior's painted borderline hospital green, and occupants eat upon mustard-colored velveteen banquettes and red diner tables. It's a straight shot looking back into the tiny kitchen, from which small mysterious plates are delivered sporadically in a dramatic wake of steam.

THE FOOD

Plump and flavorful shrimp dumplings ($3.25/three) are utter pink perfection. Insanely layered puff pastry, wrapped around fillings like imitation crab meat ($2.95/three) or sweet potato ($2.95/three), melts in the mouth with pure bliss (the divine power of lard, perhaps). Pan-fried daikon cake ($2.95) FTW. The housemade signature rainbow clear noodles are fantastic, especially in satay sauce ($3.50), with soft bellies and crisp tips—way tastier than they look (order 'em and you'll see why).

THE PEOPLE

Considering the neighborhood, the eaters you'll find are most likely locals, students or beancurd-sniffing chowhounds. Service is chillaxed but responsive: Every incoming plate's name is announced at the table to rouse memories (you easily lose track when ordering multiple dishes) and our teapot is continuously refreshed without fail. Sincerely, on any visit, you're greeted and sent off with a smile.

THE VERDICT

With a varied but tightly curated menu of available eats (around 25), any dish you order is nearly guaranteed to be excellent. In terms of nomimal ambiance, vive la velveteen. It's worth the unpredictable wait for every delivered plate of glistening grub, with prices so righteous you can eat like a prince for near to free.

Winsor Dim Sum Café [10 Tyler St., Chinatown, Boston. 617.338.1688]

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THE DEAL

A daunting list of various Shanghainese and Cantonese dim sum dishes beg to be ordered, pen-to-paper style, at this airy and bright second-story alcove. This eatery, recently added to Chinatown's restaurant row, stares down push-cart dim sum doyenne China Pearl across the street.

THE JOINT

From the large, circular banquet-style tables to the wall's wood wainscoting, nearly everything is impressively shellacked to a gleaming lacquer. Euromodern lighting systems offset the minimalist white walls, but huge red ribbons hung on plants (a grand opening gesture) and ubiquitous waving cats are traditional, fresh-off-the-boat relief.

THE FOOD

You'll find more experimental stuff along with the favorites. Fake shark fin soup ($2.50) is ace, thick with earthy mushrooms and wispy shreds of chicken; beef tripe with ginger and scallion ($2.50) is bouncily refreshing. Clams with black bean sauce ($5.95) are unfortunately a bit sandy, but the roast pork buns ($2.50/three)—pillowy, sweetish, addictive—are nearly the best in town. The house pan-fried pork dumplings ($4.95) aren't crisp-bottomed or as soupy as expected, but they still manage slurping approval topped with vinegary shreds of ginger.

THE PEOPLE

Not always (but usually) a good sign of authenticity, nearly everyone inside the bustling cafe was Chinese. While perpetual chopsticks hovered eagerly over a safari of steamer trays, lively Cantonese gossip set the scene. Service was super friendly (even throughout my mom's fuss on the check), including a dogged hunt to find the perfect container to safely transport leftover dumplings home.

THE VERDICT

For anyone who's had an urgent craving for congee, fried sesame balls or braised chicken feet, this place is a godsend. The menu—intimidating yet promising—gets the feeding done quickly, skillfully and comprehensively. Granted, it may not be all hits, but any misses are wonderfully squelched rapid-fire by whatever's coming next.