CROSSTOWN CRÊPE SMACKDOWN

Scouting out the plumpest French packages

By SARAH LEECH-BLACK

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This summer, newly elected French President Nicolas Sarkozy chose to vacation in New Hampshire. But it leaves you wondering what the Granite State offered to satisfy his gourmet French palette. French fries, quiche, hors d'œuvres, crêpes ... Crêpes! Surely he also made it to Boston to experience what our fair city has to offer in crêpes as well. Crêpes are like thin pancakes, which are then folded and filled, often served from street carts in France. Most people associate them with sweet fillings like Nutella, but our local crêperies go beyond those basics.

EATS & TREATS CRÊPERIE

With its high concentration of ethnic cafés, Allston's Brighton Ave. is the international food court fondly remembered from your Mall Rats youth. If the smell of curry or ginger makes Monterey Turkeyyou lightheaded, wander into Eats & Treats for a crêpe. It always helps to have an idea of what you're craving, especially here, where you can easily be overwhelmed by the 65 choices on the menu. Can't go wrong with the hearty Monterey Turkey ($6.95), full of smoked turkey, ham, tomatoes, jack cheese and avocadoes. Creating your own combo is a safe path to satisfaction, as some of the menu items are a bit random -- such as the Stroganoff ($6.55) made with chicken, hearts of palm, mozzarella, potato sticks and corn. Whatever you decide will be presented in a tidy pouch of doughy crêpe and served with a smile. Better for carry-out than dine-in, which suits most Allston rockers itching to get back to their apartments and resume jamming out.

[166 Brighton Ave, Allston. 617.783.6311]

MR. CREPE

This crêperie is the perfect pick for the cosmopolitan denizens of Davis Square who want to reminisce over Europhilic travels. The light, open interior is refreshing, leaving no haunting Supercrepememory of the dingy, but beloved, Someday Café. Splurge on a jam-packed Supercrêpe ($8.75), especially one with spiced sausage, roasted peppers, caramelized onions, spinach, basil and herbed feta cheese. It's better to visit in the morning when cheerful manager Ingrid is in charge; too often at night the teenage staff is a bit absorbed with their posse. Service is quick though not always reliable, resulting in three out of three crepes arriving botched. Their signature Tiff and Tone dessert crêpe ($7.95), which layers chocolate, strawberries, bananas and ice cream, is excellent when served to perfection. Bottom line: Real, fresh ingredients rule here.

[51 Davis Sq., Somerville. 617.623.0661]

CAFÉNATION

For all the starving artists, BC law students and struggling (i.e., broke) yuppies in Brighton Center, dinner often means greasy pizza or subs. Cafénation packs their crêpes as well as any deli Zesty Tunamaster can stuff a hoagie, and with many more fresh, gourmet ingredients. Their menu is just the right size, providing options for everyone without bombarding you with too many choices. They are one of the few places around that uses two different batters: A buckwheat batter for the savory and a pastry one for the sweet. Much of the menu is made in-house, including a signature tuna salad with a kick of Cajun seasoning, as well as the syrupy balsamic glaze that's drizzled on the salad accompanying all savory crêpes. As if the scrumptious food weren't enough, visit regularly to see the rotating gallery of artwork displayed each month.

[380 Washington St., Brighton. 617.783.4514. cafenation.com/cafe]

PARIS CRÊPERIE

With some of the best food and cheapest fare, Paris Crêperie earns its name. The black and white décor is mod squad chic, while the laidback staff make you feel almost cool enough to fit in. S'moresCrêpes are folded up like an ice cream cone and served in wax paper, making them portable and highly scarfable, not unlike soft-serve at the boardwalk on a hot day. Check out the Provence-style crêpes with fresh herbs sprinkled into the batter as it cooks on the grill, adding another layer of flavor to the crêpe. The Mediterranean ($6.95) is infused with tarragon and filled with gooey Gruyère, turkey and a bevy of veggies. For entertainment, either watch a four-year-old next to you devour a Nutella chocolate crêpe ($3.25) while getting it all over his face, or perhaps partake in one yourself. Take your Nutella craving to an advanced level and have a S'mores ($6.25), with the hazelnut spread and marshmallow cream wrapped in a graham cracker-infused blanket of delightful crêpe -- whipped cream billowing from the top.

[278 Harvard St., Coolidge Corner, Brookline. 617.232.1770. paris-creperie.com]

CRISPY CRÊPES CAFÉ

The exposed brick and assorted gewgaws on the wall give Crispy Crêpes a casual feel, more French countryside than hoity-toity Paris. The pair of brothers who own this long-standing crêperie certainly can cook, each crêpe overflowing with real ingredients that come from a hot sauté pan -- not a Sysco truck. They also do a lot more than crêpes, including some killer breakfast options, a lifesaver for all the hungover BU kids who cram the place on weekend mornings. You'll feel like you're getting your money's worth, the golden-brown shell of each crêpe tested by the heaps of filling inside. The Southwest ($5.95) is a slightly spicy break from the norm with chicken, spinach, cheddar and jalapeño corn salsa. Be sure to save room for one of their incredible sweet crêpes: They are all heavenly.

[512A Park Dr., Fenway. Boston. 617.859.9585. crispycrepescafe.com]