SCALLION PANCAKES

Seek deep bliss in fried doughy discs

By SAMUEL H. LIPOFF

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We're all familiar with the regionalisms of American food-brisket and ribs in the South, avocado and alfalfa in California and, of course, lobster and clam chowder in New England. Chinese food also sports extreme regional differences within its country's borders. Many Americans are familiar only with Southern Chinese food since, until recently, most Chinese immigrants to the United States came from Hong Kong and South China. In the south of China, rice is king and forms the basis of most meals. But one is quickly lured to the food of North China, where wheat reigns supreme. Wheat's importance as the staple of Northern Chinese cuisine is expressed not only in the wide variety of wheat-based noodle dishes consumed in the north, but also in savory pastries consumed morning, noon and night. Foremost among these snacks is the scallion pancake, or cong you bing (蔥油餅).

At its best, a scallion pancake is simply a mixture of flour, water, scallions and a pinch of salt lightly fried in oil. Some recipes add egg to the mixture. But it's surprising how much variety is concealed within this apparent simplicity-nearly every kitchen's interpretation of this seemingly straightforward dish tastes recognizably different.

You can find scallion pancakes at most Chinese restaurants in the Boston area (outside of New England, however, they're far more scarce); you can also buy them frozen from almost any oriental supermarket and fry them yourself. Close relatives of the scallion pancake can be found in Korean pajon (파전), Korea's take on the fried spring onion snack. In a more masochistic turn, you could experience the lackluster interpretation of scallion pancakes as "scallions added to American pancake batter" at Todd English's Kingfish Hall in Quincy Market. But for your sake and mine, it's probably best to stick to the real thing at any of these Chinese restaurants pushing the vanguard of scallion pancake authenticity.

WANG'S FAST FOOD
The shabby trappings of this hole-in-the-wall Somerville spot belie its status as one of the very best Chinese restaurants in the Boston area. Their scallion pancakes are the epitome of the Northern style: Their flaky pastry dough is lightly salted and thin, interleaved with layers of sliced scallions and fried to the edge of crispiness. The result is a heavenly combination of airy dough and oily heft, accented by the sharpness of green onions and the tang of ginger sauce. As you devour it piping hot, you'll taste a no more accurate specimen of the best scallion pancakes of Northern China.

At Wang's, you can also discover the scallion pancake's close cousin, vegetable leek pie, or jiu cai he zi (韭菜合子). It's most often translated as "chive pocket" on other menus despite actual contents of finely minced leek, owing to the fact that Chinese leek is also commonly referred to as Chinese chive. This is best described as a combination of a "Chinese leek empanada" and "Chinese leek calzone," and Wang's version is excellent. Indeed, anything from the back page of their menu (under the heading "Introduce the Northern Chinese Pasta & More") will not disappoint. With their famous handmade dumplings, noodle dishes and soups, as well as the various Chinese buns available only on weekends, you'll be in wheat-riddled heaven.

[509 Broadway, Somerville. 617.623.2982]

RU YEE
Situated in a very Italian corner of Newton, this Chinese restaurant is best known for its takeout and its adjoining bar/lounge, but Ru Yee's tiny kitchen also puts out some of the best scallion pancakes in the area. Their rendition is thicker than most and a bit fluffy. They're fried in more oil than Wang's, but they're not at all cloying. Ru Yee's dipping sauce is also unusually flavorful, with a very smooth soy base and robust ginger presence that balances the sharp vinegar. In most other respects, Ru Yee is a decent but generally unremarkable Americanized Chinese restaurant. They do, however, offer one other standout menu item: Their beef teriyaki appetizer is second to none.

[136 Adams St., Newton. 617.964.4344]

KING FUNG GARDEN
At this unequivocal Chinese dive, the interior décor-with its red vinyl benches and well-worn tables-even resembles a dilapidated diner from the '50s. Their scallion pancakes are the heaviest and oiliest of the bunch (and probably the most "Americanized"), but they have a satisfying crunch and are full of scallion flavor. These are a greasy indulgence and a heartier component to a meal than a mere appetizer. Despite the humble digs, King Fung Garden is sophisticated beyond its appearance: In addition to scallion pancakes, try asking for whatever Chinese vegetables are freshest that day. They're also known for superlative Peking roast duck, which must be ordered a day in advance.

[74 Kneeland St., Chinatown, Boston. 617.357.5262]

MULAN
A bit thinner, lighter and more delicate than the others reviewed here, MuLan's Taiwanese-style pancakes use less oil and employ fewer scallions. They're served on a doily, as befits their sophisticated adaptation. These are best with just vinegar, rather than elaborate ginger-based sauce. In addition to excellent scallion pancakes, MuLan also has several other types of bing to sample. There's the zhua bing (抓餅), which is often translated as "hundred layers cake," though it literally means "grabbed cake" or "pinched cake," in reference to how it is made. The zhua bing, an unadorned spiral of fried dough, can be a bit dry, but it's a fine complement to a meal. The niu rou juan bing (牛肉捲餅), or rolled beef cake, is like a "Chinese burrito," featuring a delicately formed pancake wrapped around moist beef and cilantro. MuLan also offers a very passable "chive pocket," which highlights the kitchen's excellent knife work in the delicate mincing of leek.

[228 Broadway, Kendall Sq., Cambridge. 617.441.8812. mulan.4t.com]

FULOON
Surprisingly, this extremely authentic Chinese restaurant has taken root in Malden. The provisions include an astonishing variety of Chinese cuisine, from Northern-style pastries and noodles to Southern-style seafood and spicy Sichuan dishes. In addition to excellent "chive pockets" and fine scallion pancakes-be sure to ask for them to be made "authentically," otherwise you might end up with an over-fried mass of Americanized dough-they also make jing du rou bing (京都肉餅), a meat pancake with thinly sliced pork (instead of scallions) interleaved between flaky layers of extraordinarily thin dough. This takes real technique to make correctly, and Fuloon's well-regarded chef excels at it. Don't leave without trying his similarly ethereal pancakes that accompany the jiang bao ya pian or Jiangpao duck (酱爆鸭片).

[375 Main St., Malden. 781.388.3338. fuloon-restaurant.com]

CHUNG SHIN YUAN
During the week, Chung Shin Yuan is a mediocre Americanized Chinese restaurant during the week; on weekends, however, it sheds its lackluster image and becomes Taiwanese brunch paradise. A throng of local Taiwanese families will queue up at 11am, just early enough to get a table in the first round of seating a mere half hour later. The very fine scallion pancakes and other Taiwanese wheat-based brunch items are the reason behind its well-deserved popularity.

[183 California St., Newton. 617.964.0111]