Baltic Porter

From Harpoon's Leviathan Series

By JASON + TODD ALSTRÖM

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Harpoon launched its Leviathan Series at the American Craft Beer Fest in June 2008 with the re-creation of Triticus Ale (Wheatwine, 14-percent alcohol by volume), based off of our original 100-Barrel Series brew that we did with them back in 2005. Around September of this year, they released an Imperial IPA (highly hopped, 10-percent ABV and just reviewed in the Dig), and most recently … a Baltic Porter (Strong Porter, 9.5-percent), which is what we’re diving into this week.

See a trend? BIG alcohol! No surprise, given the name of the series, which is in line with Harpoon’s description of the limited 120-barrel batches as “an exploration in brewing big beers for adventurous palates.”

As for the Baltic Porter, we won’t get into the style too much, as we’ve been there before, but here’s a quick recap: Although Porters are typically ales, Baltic Porters technically employ a lager yeast and are basically big, bold versions of Porters designed for shipment across the North Sea hundreds of years ago. The style has also seen a bit of a resurrection thanks to American craft brewers.

As for Harpoon’s version, their website claims they used a lager yeast, which is good news for authenticity of style, but how does it taste?

The Taste

Pours opaque and nearly pitch black with dark ruby edges and a foamy two-finger tan head that clings to the glass. Hint of metal in the nose with some major higher alcohols (think vodka or isopropyl), bicuity grains, dark breads, light hop spice, and touches of caramel and molasses. Creamy and fluffy on the palate with a silky-smooth feel. Body is lighter than anticipated, yet a bit syrupy as things warm. Tons of complex and rich malt character up front, including: coffee, molasses, tobacco, toffee, caramelized sugars, and suggestions of marshmallow and malted milk balls. There's a center of dark ripe fruits, followed by some slight acidity that moves in to break up the sweetness with a hint of burnt raisin. Leafy hops. Mild wisp of smoke toward the finish, along with some grainy tannins. Dries and cleans up nicely, except for the fusel alcohol on the breath—hide your matches.

Final Thoughts

All the expected flavor profiles are present. In fact, they're nearly spot-on compared to all of the Baltic Porters we’ve had the pleasure of meeting. That said, our only gripe is that the alcohol is way too hot, too boozy and deters from the experience as a result. This made finishing a 12-ounce bottle without feeling the alcohol split our skulls, impossible. And, on an interesting note, we had the same higher alcohol criticism with both the Imperial IPA and new Triticus Ale. While both were tasty, the booziness is just too much. And we’re not saying that the ABV is too high, but rather the alcohol profiles aren’t finishing as cleanly as they could and should.

Regardless, fans of big beers, Baltic Porters and Harpoon really need to give this new series a try. It’s available now in four-packs ($9.99) and limitedly on draft. We’re also going to hide a couple of bottles and see how they mellow with age.

FOR MORE INFO: HARPOONBREWERY.COM

For more beer information: BEERADVOCATE.COM

RESPECT BEER.