Victory Baltic Thunder

By JASON + TODD ALSTRÖM

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Anyone remember Heavyweight Brewing out of Ocean Township, New Jersey? Man, we miss that brewery, especially their famous Perkuno's Hammer; that Imperial Porter inspired by the strong Baltic Porters of the 18th century had its fair share of fans. In fact, after Heavyweight closed its doors, Ron Barchet and Bill Covaleski of Victory Brewing Company in Downingtown, Penn., decided that they missed the beer so damn much they invited former Heavyweight owner and brewer Tom Baker to brew a Baltic Porter inspired by his original recipe and the experiences that they had enjoying Perkuno's Hammer. Thus came Victory Baltic Thunder.

Speaking of recipes, Baker has included Roman beans in the mash tun—a vessel used to steep grains to extract sugars. Yes, beans. However, due to costs, Victory opted to use black-eyed peas. Why? Complexity, we guess. And despite being called a Porter (and ale), Baltic Porters employ a lager yeast strain, ferment at a higher temperature (like an ale) and are subject to cool maturation (like a lager).

Confused? Let's just taste it then.

The Taste

Dark brown, nearly black in color. Smallish head, though the tan lacing does have some decent retention qualities to it. Ripe blackberries, licorice root, soft charcoal and a very faint smokiness from the roasted grain make up the aroma. Just as smooth as it is creamy—and it is pretty damn smooth—with a full malt jacket. A malt bomb is not saying enough; thick layers of sweetness and roasted character unfold. Suggestions of chocolate mousse, black cherry juice, toasted bread and hints of charcoal and mild-roast coffee show off the complexities. Alcohol comes off as a bit hidden with a small warming quality in the end. Hop bitterness and flavor both come in modestly, and really only help to keep some balance. Finishes a little chocolaty; slight mocha, sweet.

Final Thoughts

Even though Baltic Thunder has been available for a little while now, you can definitely find it in 22-ounce bomber bottles (around $6) and limited draft. It's delicious, by the way. Very rich with pleasing malt complexities. Look to this beer for pairings with desserts, or even as a night cap. 8.5 percent alcohol by volume.

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