Hook Norton Double Stout

By JASON + TODD ALSTRÖM

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Hailing out of Oxfordshire, England, the Hook Norton Brewery has been brewing beer since 1849 and is one of a handful of family-run independent breweries left in the UK. The brewery itself is housed in a Victorian tower which is still powered by steam—apparently the last in operation of its kind and first built in 1899. The brewery also supplies beer to several pubs throughout the region including Oxfordshire, Warwickshire, Northamptonshire, Worcestershire and Gloucestershire. Good to know if you're ever in the UK.

Thankfully, the Shelton Brothers—importers out of Belchertown, Mass.—are bringing some of Hook Norton's brews into the US. This week we taste their Stout. However, calling your beer a "Double Stout" is quite deceiving for a beer imported to the US market, where double means big (alcohol) and bold (flavors). We're not sure why they call it this, so let's just find out.

The Taste

Rich dark brown in color. Nearly opaque with some ruby hues and topped with a creamy tan head that's got some legs. Toasty aroma, hint of brown bread, with mineral and metal beneath. Smooth on the palate with a nicely rounded, but surprisingly light-bodied, consistency. Touch of acridity in the front, tasting of weak coffee, followed by a soft residual sweetness and distinct toasty malt character. Faint notes of bitter chocolate; as things warm, a dollop of caramel and more toasty notes. Touch of grass, floral pith and rough leaf around the edges, but no real bitterness—mostly acrid, nothing overwhelming. Brown breads and crusts toward the finish, which goes bone dry. Grainy linger.

Final Thoughts

A solid brew with a lot of flavor (meets the "bold" criteria, sort of), but why this is a "Double Stout" still remains a mystery. Regardless, the dry malt complexities in this one are both quenching for the palate and mind. Stout fans should enjoy this. It's a nice change of pace from many of the American Stouts that tend to be on the sweeter and hoppier side, which is more than OK with us. Sometimes beer geeks tend to overlook some of the traditional, and intentional, subtleties that can be found in beers from places like the UK.

Available January to February, yet we've seen it available at some stores now. 16.9 ounces, 4.8 percent alcohol by volume.

FOR MORE INFO: HOOKNORTONBREWERY.CO.UK, SHELTONBROTHERS.COM

FOR MORE BEER EDUCATION: BEERADVOCATE.COM

RESPECT BEER.