Blunderbuss Barleywine

By JASON + TODD ALSTRÖM

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With strength similar to wine, the barleywine is one of the strongest beer styles in the world. They can range from malty-sweet to fruity, dry to hoppy as hell, and everything in between -- but they're always big, bold beers that can range from 8% alcohol by volume to 15% or more.

Those of us in the Boston area are damn lucky. Right in our backyard we have one of the only brewpubs in the country that plans to serve a barleywine year-round: Cambridge Brewing Company (CBC) in Kendall Square, brewing and rotating Blunderbuss and Arquebus throughout the year.

First brewed in 1994 by local brewing legends Darryl Goss and Will Meyers (current brewmaster), Blunderbuss Barleywine was named by the late CBC bartender and artist-in-residence Lee Wolf. A blunderbuss is an early form of a musket. They were loud, powerful and wildly inaccurate, a danger to those both receiving and delivering. Wolf decided it was a perfect description for CBC's first attempt at a barleywine, which soon became a local favorite during the cooler months. In 2006, Meyers released Arquebus -- a more refined and seemingly "lighter" barleywine for enjoying in the warmer months -- its name referring to a heavy portable matchlock gun that was a forerunner of the rifle.

This year Blunderbuss was brewed twice, with one batch sent into stainless steel and aggressively dry-hopped, and the other dropped into Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels for 3.5 months to create two unique expressions. Both were brewed using American, Scottish and German malts, using only the first runnings of the mash (dense with fermentable sugars), then boiled in the kettle to concentrate things further, touched with honey and spiced with a wide variety of hops. The outcome is a sublime 11% ABV interpretation of the style.

The first batch will make its debut during the CBC Brew Year's Eve Extravaganza (almost sold out), but the barrel-aged version is on tap now and one of Meyer's best Blunderbuss releases yet. Rich, shimmering amber topped with a creamy off-white lace. Big malty, caramel nose with slightly gummy, sweet ripe fruits and alcohol spice. Creamy and smooth on the palate. Malt, caramel, toffee, burnt sugar, vanilla and coconut characters -- thanks to the bourbon barrels. Ripe fruits and peppery notes emerge as the beer warms. Slight boozy note, but it's well-placed in the background. Toasty finish, with lingering bourbon alcohol under the breath. Aptly served in an 8oz snifter for $5.50 or a 3.75oz aperitif glass for $3.

Those intrigued by the barleywine style can explore current and past vertical expressions of both Blunderbuss and Arquebus during CBC's annual Barleywine Night on January 31, also featuring tasty eats by executive chef Brian Roskow -- details to follow.

FOR MORE INFO: CAMBRIDGEBREWINGCOMPANY.COM

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RESPECT BEER.

Beer Events

CBC Brew Year's Eve Extravaganza

December 31

There are only a handful of tickets left for Cambridge Brewing Company's big New Year's Eve party. You'll enjoy the grand buffet, six drinks, a barleywine toast, live jazz, balloon drop, party accessories, new beers on tap, bonus gifts and more.

[Cambridge Brewing Company, 1 Kendall Sq., Bldg. 100, Cambridge. 617.494.1994. 9pm/$100. cambridgebrewingcompany.com]

3rd Annual Brew Year's Eve FestivALE

December 31

Looking for something different on New Year's Eve? Join Cambridge Common for an evening of beers and food as you welcome the New Year -- three rounds of multiple beer samplers each paired with tasty comfort food. The night is topped off with a toast of Cisco Brewer's Celebration Libation Ale.

[Cambridge Common, 1667 Mass. Ave., Harvard Sq., Cambridge. 617.547.1228. 5:31pm, 7:31pm or 9:31pm/$37. cambridgecommonrestaurant.com]

FOR MORE BEER EVENTS: BEERADVOCATE.COM